Carretera Austral

[[Carretera Austral. For those who know the name doesn't need any explanation, others probably don't have a clue what it is. Carretera Austral is a famous road that crosses norhtern parth of Chilean Patagonia. The road itself is nothing worth writing about (okay, maybe it would deserve some better gravel road instead of that rattling one - or rather paved one)///Carretera Austral. For those who know the name doesn't need any explanation, others probably don't have a clue what it is. Carretera Austral is a famous road that crosses norhtern parth of Chilean Patagonia. The road itself is nothing worth writing about (okay, maybe it would deserve some better gravel road instead of that rattling one - or rather paved one)///Carretera Austral. Pre zasvätených dobre známy pojem, no väčšine ľudí asi nebude hneď jasné, o čom to je vlastne reč. Carretera Austral je cesta, ktorá sa nachádza na severnej časti čílskej Patagónie. Na ceste samotnej nie je nič výnimočné, ba priam by som sa odvážil povedať, že by si rozhodne zaslúžila aspoň decentnú prašnú cestu miesto tankodromu, ak nie rovno asfalt.]]

[[The fame of this 1240 km long road lies in the spectacular landscapes it crosses - full of ice cold rivers, lush green mountains and icebergs. Sounds cold? It was - even in the beginning of december, which is the beginning of summer here, it was very cold - here and there, you can see snow in the mountains. But boy was it stunning. Well, so our journey began - perhaps full of small problems we encountered, but the final impression the same. Wonderful. One day I'll return here for sure (Ivan).///The fame of this 1240 km long road lies in the spectacular landscapes it crosses - full of ice cold rivers, lush green mountains and icebergs. Sounds cold? It was - even in the beginning of december, which is the beginning of summer here, it was very cold - here and there, you can see snow in the mountains. But boy was it stunning. Well, so our journey began - perhaps full of small problems we encountered, but the final impression the same. Wonderful. One day I'll return here for sure (Ivan).///Sláva tejto 1240km cesty spočíva v krajine, cez ktorú prechádza - plnú ľadových riek, krásnych zelených hôr a ľadovcov. Znie to mrazivo - na prelome novembra a decembra tu naozaj bolo chladno, avšak krásne. Začína sa krásna cesta, na ktorej sa nám síce niekoľko vecí kazí, ale celkový dojem ostáva skvelý. Sem sa jedného dňa vrátim. (Ivan)]]

[[The beginning. How's it going to be?///The beginning. How's it going to be?///The beginning. How's it going to be?///Začiatky na Carretera Austral. Aké to bude?]]

[[Our first steps lead to the city of Futualefú - which is not on the road itself. :) We don't even know why we left the road, that we were so eager to drive - maybe because the guidebooks praised it so much (mostly for rafting), or we just wanted a calm place to rest after the ferry from Chiloé island. We are not huge fans of rafting, so we enjoyed a bit of hiking and beautiful views instead. :)///Our first steps lead to the city of Futualefú - which is not on the road itself. :) We don't even know why we left the road, that we were so eager to drive - maybe because the guidebooks praised it so much (mostly for rafting), or we just wanted a calm place to rest after the ferry from Chiloé island. We are not huge fans of rafting, so we enjoyed a bit of hiking and beautiful views instead. :)///Naše prvé kroky nás zaviedli do mesta Futaleufú. Ani presne nevieme, prečo sme z cesty na ktorú sme sa toľko tešili odbočili - asi kvôli guidebookom ktoré miesto priam ospvevovali, hlavne pre rafting, alebo sme potrebovali pauzu po trajekte z ostrovu Chiloé. Na rafting veľmi nie sme, tak sme si aspoň užili trochu turistiky a krásnych výhľadov. :)]]

[[Tourist information recommended a trek to some rocky mountain, that wasn't actually that special. Moreover, the last part was fenced, so we decided to be good tourists and didn't wander on private property... too much. Besides, the view around was a lot better then the rock :)///Tourist information recommended a trek to some rocky mountain, that wasn't actually that special. Moreover, the last part was fenced, so we decided to be good tourists and didn't wander on private property... too much. Besides, the view around was a lot better then the rock :)///V turistických informáciách nám odporučili prejsť sa až k nejakému skalnatému útvaru, veľmi špeciálny sa nám ale nezdal. Navyše posledná časť cesty bola ohradená, a tak sme sa rozhodli byť dobrými turistami a nenarušovať súkromný pozemok a ďalej sme nešli. Samotné skaly aj tak neboli tak zaujímavé ako cesta a okolité pohľady.]]

[[After we spent quite a while trying to find a place for the night, incuding driving around a lake - we toughened up and just parked next to the lake, behind the village. It turned up to be a good choice - we found out that right next to us there was a rodeo - and local gauchos came to practice there. Quite obviously, we didn't wander about and quickly went to check it out, asking locals for permission - success! :)///After we spent quite a while trying to find a place for the night, incuding driving around a lake - we toughened up and just parked next to the lake, behind the village. It turned up to be a good choice - we found out that right next to us there was a rodeo - and local gauchos came to practice there. Quite obviously, we didn't wander about and quickly went to check it out, asking locals for permission - success! :)///Po dlhšej chvíľke hľadania miesta na spanie a spanilej jazde okolo jazera sme sa osmelili a proste našli tichšie a schované miesto za dedinou, pri spomínanom jazere. Malo to svoju výhodu - hneď vedľa sa zhodou okolností nachádzalo miestne rodeo a večer tam prišli miestni gauchovia trénovať. Samozrejme sme nezaháľali a keď nám súhlasne kývli že sa môžeme pozerať, tak sme aj urobili. :)]]

[[We enjoyed that Futualefú was a small oasis, hidden between the mountains - but we wanted to get going again :)///We enjoyed that Futualefú was a small oasis, hidden between the mountains - but we wanted to get going again :)///Futualefú bolo kľudné miesto, izolované uprostred hôr a taká oáza kľudu.]]

[[But we had to check out the rafting / kayaking place too. It's famous for a reason, just have a look at that water. The colour is no photoshop, it's real :)///But we had to check out the rafting / kayaking place too. It's famous for a reason, just have a look at that water. The colour is no photoshop, it's real :)///Ako sme už ale spomínali, má aj svoju druhú stránku - je to obľúbené a vyhľadávané miesto na rafting a kayaking. No nešli by ste sem? Voda nie je photoshop, tie farby sú reálne. :)]]

[[We moved on and returned to the Carretera Austral, to continue our rough road adventure. We made it to national park Queulat, where we stayed in the official campsite. It was calm and soothing, lined by steep mountains and jungle-like vegetation, and next to the lake like the last time. Girls went to see a bit grumpy park guard and returned with information about a hike to the Laguna Los Pumos.///We moved on and returned to the Carretera Austral, to continue our rough road adventure. We made it to national park Queulat, where we stayed in the official campsite. It was calm and soothing, lined by steep mountains and jungle-like vegetation, and next to the lake like the last time. Girls went to see a bit grumpy park guard and returned with information about a hike to the Laguna Los Pumos.///Nestrácali sme ale čas a vrátili sme sa na Carreteru Austral a pokračovali po hrboľatej ceste ďalej. Dostali sme sa až k národnému parku Queulat, kde sme ostali na noc v oficálnom kempe. Kemp bol príjemný, rovnako ako minule pri jazere a lemovali ho strmé hory, samé stromy a celkovo to bolo ako v miernej džungli. Baby boli pozrieť nepríjemného a neochotného strážcu parku a vrátili sa s informáciami o výlete na Laguna Los Pumos.]]

[[By the way, the lake was awesome... and despite the absolutely ice cold water, the two gentlemen Ivan & Tomáš threw themselves into the water later in the evening. No photos of that, though. :)///By the way, the lake was awesome... and despite the absolutely ice cold water, the two gentlemen Ivan & Tomáš threw themselves into the water later in the evening. No photos of that, though. :)///Jazero bolo krásne...a napriek absolútne ľadovej vode sa ako dvaja blázni Ivan s Tomášom vrhli večer do vody. Foto z toho ale nie je :)]]

[[The next day, we went to do the mentioned hike and let the guard know. He looked a bit bewildered and told us, that it's a longer and harder trek... yees yes, we know. If we had known what kind of jungle lied ahead of us, we would have woken up earlier. :) (third conditonal, yay.)///The next day, we went to do the mentioned hike and let the guard know. He looked a bit bewildered and told us, that it's a longer and harder trek... yees yes, we know. If we had known what kind of jungle lied ahead of us, we would have woken up earlier. :) (third conditonal, yay.)///Ďalší deň sme sa teda vydali na spomínaný hike a oznámili sme to spomínanému strážcovi, ktorý len udivene povedal, že je to dlhý a náročnejší trek... ale veď ok. Keby sme vedeli, že nás čaká džungľa akú by som očakával niekde v Brazílii, tak by sme si asi hodne privstali. :)]]

[[The trail was in a really bad shape and it was thicket and jungle everywhere - we had to basically crawl here and then. OK, Ivan and Tomáš enjoyed some Indiana Jones moments and we loved to see the snow during the summer - we could not finish the hike succesfully. The "finish line" was next to the lake, but we could not make it, cause we counted on the wrong info the guard provided us. The time required to do this (that he told us) was completely wrong.///The trail was in a really bad shape and it was thicket and jungle everywhere - we had to basically crawl here and then. OK, Ivan and Tomáš enjoyed some Indiana Jones moments and we loved to see the snow during the summer - we could not finish the hike succesfully. The "finish line" was next to the lake, but we could not make it, cause we counted on the wrong info the guard provided us. The time required to do this (that he told us) was completely wrong.///Turistický chodník bol ale neupravený a bola to samá húština a džungľa, niekoľkokrát sme sa museli niekoľko metrov takmer plaziť. Napriek tomu, že si Ivan a Tomáš miestami užívali Indiana Jones chvíľky a tešili sa zo snehu uprostred leta, ostali sme trošku sklamaní - nestihli sme totiž dôjsť až k plánovenému jazeru, lebo sme rátali s potrebným časom ktorý nám povedal strážca parku - ale ten bol úplne nesprávny. ]]

[[Once again, as responsible turists, we turned around so we wouldn't have to crawl our way back through the jungle in the dark. On the way back, one small bridge broke down when Janka stepped on it and she ended up with her foot up to her knee in the bridge...and with a huge bruise. No more hard hikes for the next few days then...Well, shit happens.///Once again, as responsible turists, we turned around so we wouldn't have to crawl our way back through the jungle in the dark. On the way back, one small bridge broke down when Janka stepped on it and she ended up with her foot up to her knee in the bridge...and with a huge bruise. No more hard hikes for the next few days then...Well, shit happens.///Ako zodpovední turisti sme sa teda otočili, aby sme cez tú húštinu nemuseli ísť nazad potme. Cestou naspäť sa pod Jankou navyše preboril mostík a skončila s jednou nohou do pol stehna v mostíku, obrovskou modrinou a pár dní bez namáhavého chodenia. Nuž, shit happens.]]

[[When we made it back, the guard told us, casually - yeah, the trail is in a very bad shape, we didn't make it quite passable yet. Thank you for telling us sooner, I guess... Janka's leg hurt quite a lot so we skipped a few top attractions from the region like the Ventisquero Colgante iceberg and a few waterfalls - if you go there, let us know how it is ;). Overall, the trek was nice though - definitely worth it, perhaps would be better if it was maintained.///When we made it back, the guard told us, casually - yeah, the trail is in a very bad shape, we didn't make it quite passable yet. Thank you for telling us sooner, I guess... Janka's leg hurt quite a lot so we skipped a few top attractions from the region like the Ventisquero Colgante iceberg and a few waterfalls - if you go there, let us know how it is ;). Overall, the trek was nice though - definitely worth it, perhaps would be better if it was maintained.///Keď sme sa vrátili, strážca parku s kľudným svedomím oznámil že áno, cestu ešte tento rok nestihli upraviť a je vo veľmi zlom stave. Ale deň dopredu nám to povedať nemohol, aby sme si na trek dali aspoň tri hodiny navyše, však... Janku noha poriadne bolela, tak sme museli skippnut niektore top atrakcie z oblasti ako ladovec Ventisquero Colgante ci par vodopadov. Ak tam pôjdete, dajte nám vedieť aké to tam je. ;) Celkovo bol ale trek zaujímavý a nebyť strašného stavu, určite sa oplatí vidieť.]]

[[We're on the road again, continuing on the Carretera Austral through Coyhaique (fixing a overly tensed fan belt, our only minor problem so far - 5 minute job), Cochrane, Cerro Castillo all the way to Rio Tranquilo - a calm river. Well, not so much, apparently :) This place is a must see for all passers by, because of the wonderful cathedral-like caves on the lake. We wanted to see them too, but because of a very strong and unpredictable wind, none of the tour agencies was willing to sail. "When the wind weakens" they said. After a few hours of waiting, we decided to continue and just enjoyed the scenery :)///We're on the road again, continuing on the Carretera Austral through Coyhaique (fixing a overly tensed fan belt, our only minor problem so far - 5 minute job), Cochrane, Cerro Castillo all the way to Rio Tranquilo - a calm river. Well, not so much, apparently :) This place is a must see for all passers by, because of the wonderful cathedral-like caves on the lake. We wanted to see them too, but because of a very strong and unpredictable wind, none of the tour agencies was willing to sail. "When the wind weakens" they said. After a few hours of waiting, we decided to continue and just enjoyed the scenery :)///Pokračujeme teda ďalej po Carretere Austral cez Coyhaique, Cochrane, Cerro Castillo až do Rio Tranquilo. Tu sme chceli ísť pozrieť krásne jaskyne na jazere, ktoré sú takmer povinnou zástavkou. Vzhľadom na silný a nepredvídateľný vietor ale ani jedna z turistických agentúr nechcela vyplávať. Vraj keď vietor ustane... Keď neustal ani po niekoľkých hodinách, zabalili sme to a išli sme teda ďalej a užívali si stále sa meniace scenérie.]]

[[A good tip for the future travellers - if you want to see these amazing caves, leave 2-3 days in your schedule for them, just to make sure.///A good tip for the future travellers - if you want to see these amazing caves, leave 2-3 days in your schedule for them, just to make sure.///Tip pre budúcich cestovateľov - ak tieto nádherné jaskyne chcete ísť pozrieť, nechajte si radšej rezervu pár dní. :)]]

[[We met a brother... from Texas :)///We met a brother... from Texas :)///Stretli sme aj brata z Texasu :)]]

View fullsize

[[This incredible scenery (that you see basically behind each corner) got to us, so we decided to wild camp here, just next to the road. The road continues until the small village Villa O'Higgins, but it's dead end there - no way to go by car further south or to Argentina, there is no road. We decided to cross Argentina here - we might have missed a bit of the road, but because of the gained time, our friends could hike the legendary Torres del Paine with us.///This incredible scenery (that you see basically behind each corner) got to us, so we decided to wild camp here, just next to the road. The road continues until the small village Villa O'Higgins, but it's dead end there - no way to go by car further south or to Argentina, there is no road. We decided to cross Argentina here - we might have missed a bit of the road, but because of the gained time, our friends could hike the legendary Torres del Paine with us.///Na tomto nádhernom mieste, ktoré na Carretere Austral nájdete za každou zákrutou, sme zostali na večer. Napriek tomu, že cesta pokračuje ďalej až do mesta Villa O’Higgins (v samotnom meste toho nie je vela čo robit, ale údajne posledná čast cesty je krásna) - sme sa rozhodli prejsť ďalší deň do Argentíny a vďaka ušetrenému času stihnúť s našimi kamarátmi aj legendárny park Torres del Paine.]]

[[Do you want to see it as well? Subscribe to our newsletter and we'll send you our new articles once a week. :)///Do you want to see it as well? Subscribe to our newsletter and we'll send you our new articles once a week. :)///Chcete ho vidieť tiež? Zapíšte sa na odber noviniek a raz týždenne vám pošleme mail s článkami. :)]]